The Tarock players of Café Schopenhauer

A true classic of Viennese coffeehouse culture, Café Schopenhauer effortlessly bridges past and present. In addition to evenings of music, readings and discussions, a regular group has been meeting here for decades to play Tarock. They have been a constant amid the passage of time.

Vienna would not be Vienna without its time-honoured coffeehouses. As early as 1900, cafés were springing up across the city. Lingering for hours over a Melange, newspapers and conversation is so deeply woven into Vienna’s DNA that its coffeehouse culture has been recognised as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Alongside the many literary works created within their walls, games have been played at Viennese café tables for centuries.

One of the great institutions of this tradition is Café Schopenhauer, located in Vienna’s 18th district. Just a few minutes’ walk from the Gürtel underground line, this traditional café with its pavement terrace has been a neighbourhood favourite for more than a hundred years. Even a century ago, guests are said to have gathered here on Staudgasse to chat and dine. Today, it still draws friends for a game of chess, students revising for exams, and families enjoying brunch. More times than not, it is usually bustling – yet three tables remain permanently reserved, kept for some very special regulars: the Tarock players.

Community is the trump card

By now, the players have become part of the café’s very fabric. Even the Christmas celebrations are planned around them. When that time comes, the card tables make way for the piano — there’s singing instead of playing. Why do people love spending time here so much? “You can stay here all day without anyone giving you funny looks,” says Ilse Berner. “Somehow, the whole neighbourhood meets at Schopenhauer. There’s a book table, really lovely reading chairs — you sit with a book or the day’s paper,” she explains. “It has a certain aura,” agrees Dietmar. As a suburban coffeehouse, it has its regulars. “It still has something of the old days. It’s an old Viennese café, but not a sleepy one. The owner has found just the right balance.”

The owner, Fred Göd, took over Café Schopenhauer a few years ago after several changes of hands. When renovating, he made it a priority to preserve the café’s heritage — a tribute to both the coffeehouse and its guests. High ceilings and tall windows, mirrors, wooden panelling and cosy sitting areas remain, while a modern bar counter, disco ball and vegan dishes alongside homemade pastries draw in a younger crowd. Breakfast is served well into the afternoon — perfect for late risers. At once a coffeehouse, bookshop and concert venue, it has also become a second living room for many. And since Tarock is closely related to Tarot, one might say the cards are well aligned for the future of Café Schopenhauer.

author: Beatrix Kouba